Posts tagged Fusion

The Rice Den, St Leonard’s

Review November 27, 2015

What’s going on with the North Sydney area? It wasn’t until I started looking through my calendar did I realise how many trips I was making into the St. Leonard’s/Crows Nest to eat. Thai Food, Mexican, Burgers…and now, Modern Cantonese.

The Rice Den in St. Leonards takes traditional Cantonese cuisine and gives it a new spin with fresh Australian ingredients. When we first step in, the dark wood furnishings convey a sense of old world charm, while the efficient wait staff bring it all back into the modern day. They knew the menu like the back of their hand, and could make personal recommendations based on solid food knowledge.

So far, so good.

Handmade Cheong Fun, Peanut sesame, hoisin sauce $8

We started with the Handmade Cheong Fun with Peanut Sesame and Hoisin Sauce, $8. Because nostalgia. When I was a kid, Cheong Fun was a daily breakfast. My mum would take me to this hawker stall, downstairs from the kindergarten I went to. A large, rotund man in a thin white wife beater stood, amongst steaming pots, selling rice cakes with radish condiments and rice noodle rolls with hoisin sauce to long queues of dreary-eyed office workers in the building.

The noodles here were soft, tender, but not quite as silky as I wanted them to be. As for the sauce, I could do without the peanut element, but it really did bring childhood memories flooding back for me.

Mixed wild mushroom pancake, $10

But because you can’t live on rice noodles alone – well, you can, but I don’t think you’re meant to – we also got the Mixed Wild Mushroom Pancake ($10) and Rice Wine Cured Ocean Trout with pickled fennel, ginger and soy sauce ($16).

Rice Wine Cured Ocean Trout, Pickled Fennel, Ginger and Soy Sauce $16

The Rice Wine Cured Ocean Trout was seriously kickass, but we all know that I’ve got a bit of a thing for cured fish. Or fresh fish. Or any fish. Doesn’t have to be fish, as long as it comes from the sea. In this case, the rice wine flavour wasn’t particularly obvious, but it really worked as a dish, for me.

Tea smoked chicken salad, rice sheets, peanut sesame and soy dressing, chinkiang vinegar, $16

Crispy soft shell crab, with spicy spanner crab mung bean noodle ($24)

Of the larger bites, we ordered the Tea smoked chicken salad, rice sheets, peanut sesame and soy dressing, chinking vinegar ($16), and the Crispy soft shell crab, with spicy spanner crab mung bean noodle ($24).

Maybe it was the crazy heat, but I was really really feeling the chicken salad, and I’m not even a chicken fan! The smoke really came through without being too overpowering, and the black vinegar dressing kept it refreshing and moreish. A big fat yes.

The Crispy soft shell crab, with spicy spanner crab mung bean noodle ($24) reminded me a little of the Thai claypot crab with glass noodles, mixed a little with chilli crab. There was something really comforting about it, and it was very well made, but somehow wasn’t quite as punchy as the tart chicken salad on a steaming hot day.

French Toast, Dulce de Leche, Peanut Crumble, Mascarpone with matcha green tea, $14

And to finish, French Toast, Dulce de Leche, Peanut Crumble, Mascarpone with matcha green tea ($14). It was crazy rich, with only the green tea mascarpone to cut it. It didn’t quite have the pudding quality that I like in a french toast – My french toasts border on bread pudding – but it was fantastically crispy, and oozing with Dulce de Leche.

I really like what The Rice Den does with bringing old school favourites into the modern day. There’s a whole lot of respect for the cuisine, without taking itself too seriously, which is really what casual dining (to me) is all about. Because not everyone has to spend 10,000hrs perfecting Cantonese techniques.

No, I think we’ll leave that to the old masters.

Insatiable Munchies dined as guests of The Rice Den.

The Rice Den
30-32 Chandos Street
St Leonards, Sydney
Phone: 02 9438 3612
Website: http://thericeden.com.au

Billy Kwong, Potts Point

Review November 1, 2015

Billy Kwong is not a Chinese restaurant. Well, I mean I assume he is also a man, but I’m talking about Billy Kwong in Potts Point. It may be decked out like a Chinese restaurant, it may smell like a Chinese restaurant, and it may even serve typically Chinese dishes, but don’t let all that fool you.

Since opening its doors in 2000, Billy Kwong has been the poster child for the Modern Australian take on the Chinese cuisine – fusing native Australian ingredients with Chinese cooking techniques to create something that’s unique to Sydney.

As for the quality of the food, my friends are split into two camps. The non-Asian friends love it and would happily head there for a night out; and the Asian friends, well, let’s just say that there’s better Chinese to be had at a more affordable price.

But keeping in mind that it’s (repeat after me) not a Chinese restaurant, it’s actually a pretty decent feed.

Steamed Prawn Wontons, $19

We started with Steamed Prawn Wontons, $19, and Rice Noodle Rolls, $28. The wontons, with its silky wrapper and fresh filling, sat in a peppery puddle of brown rice vinegar and chilli dressing. A small salad of finely sliced herbs finished the dish, and made sure that every mouthful was satisfyingly fresh, sour, salty, and spicy.

Rice Noodle Rolls, $28

The Rice Noodle Rolls did not fair quite as well, with a fairly thick sheet of rice noodle wrapped around a cigar of pulled braised beef brisket. I loved the crispy texture of the fried rolls, but flavour-wise, it needed a little something something to cut through the richness. The beef was, well, beefy, but not outstandingly so, and it didn’t taste any particular spice that spoke to a labour of love. And at $28 for an entree, I was really hoping for a LOT more love.

Crispy Duck with Davidson’s Plum, $48

For the main, we got the Crispy Duck with Davidson’s Plum, $48, with Stir Fried Native Australian Greens, $12, to share. The duck came in a huge serving (we were warned by the waiter) and the fuchsia sweet plum sauce was a fun take on the Duck á L’orange from days gone past. Intensely spiced, the salty sweet gravy was just so satisfying ladled over rice, and reminded me of glossy plates of sweet and sour pork from my childhood. SAH GOOD.

Although just between us, I could’ve gone without the duck. Just the sauce, sour plums, rice and maybe a touch of chopped chilli, thankyouverymuch.

Stir Fried Native Australian Greens

The Native Australian Greens were stir-fried with ginger and white soy. I’m sure it would be more impressive to know exactly what greens we were eating, but to me, it all just tasted like wilted spinach. Lovely spinach, but wilted spinach nonetheless. I know, right? #FoodBloggerFail

The biggest thing that struck me about the experience at Billy Kwong is not actually the food: it’s the service. Our water glasses were never empty, and our teapot was constantly topped up with hot water. Our waiter knew the menu from back to front, and gave sincere recommendations about what (and how much) we should order. The welcome was warm, and they were very quick to notice if we looked up and needed assistance.

I guess that’s what really separates my Asian friends and my non-Asian friends: we place so much importance on the food that the service really is optional. We don’t care if you ignore us, if the food is delicious and at a good price. Everyone else, though, sees the value in the service provided, and at Billy Kwong you’re really paying for that privilege.

A lovely place to have dinner, as long as you’re not expecting an authentic Chinese restaurant. Because it is not. ?

This meal was independently paid for.

Billy Kwong
28 Macleay Street, Elizabeth Bay
Potts Point, Sydney, NSW
Phone: 02 9332 3300
Website: http://billykwong.com.au

Hedgehogs in the Inner West: Luyu and Yum Yum, Newtown

Review October 26, 2015

Manga Hedgehog Dumplings from Luyu and Yum Yum, Newtown. Sydney Food Blog Insatiable Munchies Review

It was raining, and I was late. Public transport improves no one’s mood at the best of times, and this was no exception. It was stiflingly humid, and even the vibrancy of a neighbourhood like Newtown couldn’t fight off the absolutely depressing and un-sexy shade of grey that had descended upon Sydney.

Located on King Street with a bright neon sign is Luyu and Yum Yum: the effort of tea master Luyu to pair his tea with food, and the result is a classy east-meets-west restaurant, with a heavy emphasis on dumplings.

Manga Dumpling “Hedgehog”, $12.80

I had a job to do (hard life) and as the entrees started rolling out I felt like I was getting a good Asian feed, without the stereotypical Asian service. The Manga Hedgehogs were so gosh darned cute that I almost couldn’t bear to eat them. Almost.

Manga Dumpling “Hedgehog”, $12.80

Encased in sweet fluffy dough was a rich mushroom filling that transported me back to Hong Kong in the 90s. Everything melded together whilst keeping its own flavour identity, and I felt like I was watching an award-winning acapella performance.

Caviar Dumpling, $13.80

The Caviar Dumpling was also a winner, and not just because I’m a slave to anything caviar. A solid mouthful of prawn dumpling was just lightly annointed with salty caviar, giving me texture and flavour all at once.

7 flavoured tofu, $7.80

Want something fun? Then eat the 7-flavour tofu with the chilli oil. By itself, the cubes of tofu weren’t particularly exciting, but the chilli oil transformed it into BBQ duck. Seriously. If you’re vegan and always wondered why we love BBQ duck so much, this is your chance to find out. There’s some sort of magic voodoo going on here, and all I need to know is that it just works, like Apple products did in the 00’s.

Duck Pancake, $16.80

Speaking of which, the Duck pancakes bring me right back to old Chinese restaurants of the 90s with my family, with generous lashings of sauce to accompany the chunks of duck meat. Nothing new, but if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Fantastically executed, and kept me eating till the last bite, even if I personally prefer the sweeter plum sauce to the more commonly used hoisin.

Truffle Dumpling Skewer, $12.80

The east-meets-west fusion, of course, doesn’t always produce stunners. Even the most beautiful people in the world have average babies sometimes. Don’t let Angelina and Brad fool you. The Truffle Dumpling Skewers was one example, which confused the excitement right out of me. Let me try to explain it with this Venn diagram.

It’s really like if you added truffle on a Siu Mai. Prawn dumplings? We know that’s delicious. Truffle prawns? Yes please! Truffled dumplings? Din Tai Fung will show you the way. But Truffled Prawn Dumplings? Eh, not so much. Maybe my palate isn’t pushing the boundaries of dining, but I wasn’t a fan of the combination even though I enjoyed the individual components. And the sweet Jasmine honey sauce didn’t help either. It was cute that it tasted strongly like soda – and I’m all for repurposing flavours in unexpected ways – but it just didn’t go.

If in doubt, just follow the Fonz.

Mama’s Chilli Chicken, $12.80

And the mains didn’t exactly come out swinging in the same way entrees did.

The Chilli Chicken and Beetroot echoed Kung Pao Chicken, an old school popular Chinese restaurant favourite that involves cashews, dried chillies, and a dark soy sauce that’s so sticky it really should be called a glaze. In this case, fresh serrano chillies replace the dried, and candied walnuts replace the cashews. The glaze wasn’t quite as saucy or dark, and the fresh pieces of beetroot added a fresh crunch. The candied walnuts were the best bit of the dish, with a glassy sugar coating that shattered with every bite. I really wished that there was more of the glaze/sauce – how would you mix it into your rice otherwise? – and while I was initially ambivalent about the beetroot, it really grew on me as I kept picking at it. The part that got me confused was the sprinkle of dried basil over the top. It jarred me out of the Asian illusion of the dish, and felt like that awkward kid at the party who tries to insert themselves into the group and then doesnt know what they want to say. Not a bad dish, but after the dumplings, it had big ~~shoes~~ plates to fill.

Eggplant, $12.80

The Eggplant was another dish that grew on me, but not to desired rash status. Battered eggplant fritters are served in a pyramid of sorts, and drizzled with a caramel sauce. I really
mourn that the eggplant wasn’t more obvious – you could’ve replaced it with zucchini and I’m not sure many would notice – but it was pretty enjoyable in a fritter sorta way. Crunchy-on-the-outside-fluffy-on-the-inside coating, and sauce. Good, but not ‘amazing’, as the waiter recommended it to us.

If the dumplings were the pinnacle of what Luyu and Yum Yum had to offer, then I’m really sorry to say that Osmanthus Oasis, for me, was base camp at the foot of the mountain.

Osmanthus Oasis, $13.80

My personal doubts about the flavour aside, the Osamanthus Oasis was just plain hard to eat. Served on a long, thin plate, the jelly kept slipping and sliding off and was fairly difficult to pick up. What made matters worse was the chocolate syrup, that added a faint chemical taste to the dessert. Why they would add something like that to what could’ve been an otherwise an interesting dessert, I will never understand. Especially not when the waiter strongly seconded our decision to order it.

I think Luyu and Yum Yum is perfect for a group outing: the serving sizes of dumplings allow you to sample and try a little bit of everything without getting too full, and it’s a nice change to the ubiquitous tapas houses in Sydney. If I could do it all over again, and I wouldn’t mind going back with more friends, I’d just stick to the dumpling and entree menu. It’s got more than enough variety to keep anyone’s attention, and most of it is really well executed.

Just don’t order the dessert. Trust me.

Insatiable Munchies dined as guests of Luyu and Yum Yum.

Luyu and Yum Yum
Level 1, 196 King Street
Newtown, Sydney
Phone: 02 8317 6337
Website: http://luyu.com.au

It’s not easy being green: One Tea Lounge and Grill, Sydney CBD

Review September 30, 2015

Sydney Food Blog Review of One Tea Lounge, Sydney CBD

Green Tea is touted to have many health benefits, like antioxidants, and…yeah whatever. To be honest, all I care about is that it’s so DAMNED DELICIOUS.

I know you feel me when I say matcha errthang.

Gyokuro Green Tea

Well, David – owner of One Tea Lounge and Grill – seems to feel the same way, using green tea as a component in 80% of the menu. Of course, it helps that his mum is an expert in the stuff, what with having her own store and all.

From drinks to food, just about everything is tinted a beautiful shade of Jade.

Matcha Yuzu Frozen Tubes

We were spoilt with David getting behind the bar to personally create our cocktails. Using matcha to create a green tea syrup, he then mixes it with tangy yuzu juice and other fruits to create a refreshing mix that’s served up in test tubes, with billowing dry ice for effect.

Gyokuro smoked octopus with avocado

Takocini, $9

Matcha Fries ($4 for half serve)

Popcorn curry chicken ($5 half serve)

Food-wise, the small bites ranged from the more obvious Matcha Fries, which were topped with a green tea and nori mixture, to the more subtle Gyokuro smoked octopus with avocado. The octopus was creamy and rich, cut by a light smokiness, and the Popcorn Curry Chicken was a perfect snacking accompaniment to our cocktails.

The Takocini was a particular standout: part arancini (Italian rice balls coated and deep fried) and part takoyaki (Japanese Octopus balls made from a wheat flour batter and fried in a cast iron pan), these little morsels on a bed of green tea mayo was just all moreish. Also high on the so-addictive-it’s-like-crack scale, the Matcha Fries. Served with a curry sauce, it reminded me of my childhood in Singapore where Maccas had curry sauce available to be eaten with a seaweed flavoured bag of fries.

Because you ain’t done fast food till you’ve done Asian fast food.

Ramen Burger with Beef, $13.80

Matcha Baoger with Tofu, $13.80

Black Pepper Unagi Matcha Bento, $20.80

On the mains front, they’ve got all the Japanese classics like Bentos, Sizzle Hotplates, and Wagyu Beef, all with a modern twist, of course.

Spicy Cheese Pork Sizzle Hotplate, $13.80

Volcano Wagyu Beef

The Ramen Burger has come a long way since I first tried it at the Night Noodle Markets. The noodle ‘buns’ are satisfyingly crunchy on the outside, and held together really well, even though the beef patty made it a touch too thick to eat as a burger.

For the rice lovers, the Black Pepper Unagi Bento features a soft green tea rice, that adds a very mild and complementary note of bitterness to the whole dish. Or if you prefer a one-dish rice thang, then the sizzling hotplate is something worth ordering. Owner David honestly states Pepper Lunch as his inspiration, and I think you can never have enough of a good thing. He’s changed it up by adding an egg pour, so that you get flecks of hotplate-fried egg through your sizzling rice! Add to that chilli pork and cheese, and you’ve got yourself a cold-weather winner.

And if you’re trying to impress someone – or potentially maim them, haha! – you have to go the Volcano Wagyu Beef. Beautifully marbled pieces of wagyu are seared on a hotplate, and served with a billowing volcano of FIRRRRREEEEEE…and red wine jus. But really, I’m a sucker for theatrics, and the pyrotechnics got me.

Matcha Lava Bomb, $20

The desserts, too, have gotten the matcha treatment. The Matcha Lava Bomb is basically a lava cake that’s had a lovechild with a crepe suzette: the cake gets doused in orange liqueur and set on fire. Cause everything is better when it’s been set on fire.

To be brutally honest, the food, while good, isn’t super amazing. But the whole experience though, is a barrel of fun. David really understands what it means to be a diner, and he makes sure that everything from the service to the ambience is deliberate and thought out. It really speaks to the story behind One Tea Lounge – it’s dedicated to Daisy, David’s fiancee who passed away from cancer last year. It was always her dream to open a restaurant, and really provide the ‘hospitable’ in ‘hospitality’. And I respect that David is trying to carry out her dream.

I would recommend heading down to One Tea Lounge and Grill in a group – it’s much more fun that way. Otherwise, why not say hi to David at their Night Noodle Market stall? It’s not 100% confirmed, but if the previous years are any indication, they’ll be there. =)

Insatiable Munchies dined as guests of One Tea Lounge and Grill.

One Tea Lounge and Grill
Upper Ground Floor
73 York Street, Sydney, NSW
Phone: 02 8318 2246
Website: https://www.facebook.com/ONEtealounge

Most important meal of the day: Sokyo, Pyrmont

Review September 28, 2015

Sydney Food Blog Review of Sokyo, Pyrmont

I am not a breakfast person. Far from it. And whether not it’s contributed to my ever burgeoning waistline – although I do think it’s more to do with all the delicious food that I’m inclined to consume – I still maintain that I will only eat breakfast if there’s something delicious that’s worth the effort it takes to wake up in the morning.

Can you tell that I’m not a morning person?

But you know which culture does breakfast really well? The Japanese, that’s who. With rice, fish, pickles and soup, they really give meaning to “feasting like a king”. And if there’s any day where I get to have breakfast like royalty, it’s my birthday, dammit!

So Sam brings me to Sokyo, where they offer up dishes like an Eggs Benedict, complete with crispy bacon, brioche and miso hollandaise, and the more traditional Choushoku breakfast, with grilled fish (pictured above), pickles, rice, miso soup, chawanmushi and edamame beans.

The Choushoku Breakfast was, well, it was a bit lacking, especially with my high HIGH hopes. There was a ton of rice with not quite enough to go with it, throwing the whole tray off balance. What was there, though, was insanely delicious. The grilled tooth fish was silky smooth and buttery, and the chawanmushi was cooked just rice to showcase the sweet egg custard. It just didn’t have…enough of it to truly hit the spot. Not for a glutton guts like me, anyway.

The Eggs Benedict ticked most of the boxes for what you want from an eggs benedict – buttery hollandaise, unctuous brioche, crispy bacon etc – but I was kinda missing the fusion elements of it. Sure, the hollandaise has miso in it, but it wasn’t particularly salient when had together with the poached eggs and brioche.

That’ll teach me to have high expectations. DAMN YOU BREAKFAST.

Although, I hear the dinner is extremely good…

This meal was independently paid for.

Sokyo
Level G, The Darling at the Star
80 Pyrmont Street
Pyrmont, Sydney, NSW
Phone: 02 9657 9161
Website: www.star.com.au/Sokyo

As the crow flies: The Tall Lemongrass, Crows Nest

Review June 26, 2015

Review of The Tall Lemongrass, Crows Nest

I must say that I’ve been very lucky: growing up in Singapore, I’ve been able to consider Thailand as a “weekend holiday” destination, and enjoy all the culinary delights that come with it! Since moving to Sydney, I’ve clearly had less easy access to Thailand, but I must say, Thai food in Sydney is actually quite good.

And with that knowledge, I was super excited to be invited to Tall Lemongrass, in Crow’s Nest!

Mieng Khumm, $12

Owner Wendy greeted us at the door, and then proceeded to completely spoil us with her extensive menu – this was a whole book and a few laminated sheets worth of menu – of Thai classics with a modern slant.

We start with 2 entrees, because…well, do we actually need a reason?

Duck Salad Mouthfuls, $14

The Mieng Khum, $12, and the Duck Salad Mouthfuls, $14 show a strong emphasis on presentation, and sets the mood for a bit of theatre. Mieng Khum is a traditional Thai snack of ginger, chilli, onion, peanuts, and various other toppings, wrapped in a betel leaf. In Australia, with our abundance of beautiful produce, poached prawn is often added, making a delicious mouthful. Here at Tall Lemongrass, it’s served with an additional egg net and a delicious sweet/savoury dressing, in stunning glasses.

Told you that there was an emphasis on presentation!

Crispy Pork with Caramel Dressing , $20

Of the mains, we chose the Crispy Pork Belly with Caramel Dressing, $20, the Som Tum with Deep Fried Barramundi Fillet, $25, the Pad Thai with Squid, $16, and Green Tea Rice, $3.50, just to mop up all the deliciousness!

Green Tea Rice, $3.50

Som Tum with Deep Fried Barramundi Fillet, $25

Pad Thai with Squid, $16

The Crispy Pork Belly came out with an absolute flourish, as all crispy pork belly is wont to do, and the caramel sauce coated the tender-on-the-inside-crispy-on-the-outside pork belly chunks with an addictive sweet glaze. The Green Tea Rice was another delicious surprise – they fry the rice off with matcha powder, giving a very subtle and light green tea flavour that actually works very well with the traditional Thai mix of flavours of sweet, salty, spicy and salty.

Heck, I’d even eat the rice on its own. But we all know that I’d do that anyway.

Deep fried ice cream with filo sheets, $12.50

But the piece de resistance – DEEP FRIED ICE CREAM!!! Cold ice cream, hot crispy filo pastry, a delight for the senses. And check this: It’s better than Holy Basil. BOOM. There, I said it. And even though we were full AF, it was still the best part of the evening. Look, the other dishes were decent, but this dessert was absolutely excellent.

I really like how The Tall Lemongrass is trying to do something new, with very old culinary traditions. They’re trying to do something different with something so familiar to us, and I commend them for that. Unfortunately, not everything works – the Pad Thai, for example, while very cute in their little egg net parcels, was not actually what I’d classify as a main. And I’m not sure how comfortable I’d be if I thought I was ordering a stock standard full plate of pad thai, and 2 small parcels came out to the table.

BUT, I’m an avid supporter of creativity, and as with any restaurant menu – especially one so extensive – is bound to have some executional problems. And realistically, Crows Nest is an expensive neighbourhood, so I guess…well I’m not entirely surprised about the price tags of the dishes.

Great space for a group setting, and the waitresses are extremely friendly and helpful. If nothing else, go for that fried ice cream. It’s freaking amazeballs.

Insatiable Munchies dined as guests of The Tall Lemongrass.

The Tall Lemongrass
136 Willoughby Road
Crows Nest, Sydney, NSW
Phone: 02 9966 0350
Website: www.thetalllemongrass.com.au/

WIP me into shape! Work in Progress, Sydney

Review April 29, 2015

We know that Merivale does good things, and as a dining powerhouse, their food will always hit a minimum, consistent standard. Combine that with experienced, star chefs, and you’ve got yourself a recipe for trendy restaurants that makes food-lover’s mouth water, and eyes glaze over.

The latest project is Patrick Freisen’s Work In Progress (WIP), and they have been drawing extended crowds in with a menu of Fried chicken, and Lo Mein.

Curried beef brisket noodle soup, $16

I’ve never been a huge fan of noodles in watery soup, but there’s a very thin line between soup and gravy, and this curry sauce with its tender beef brisket pieces and yellow strands of noodles is my very definition of comfort food. This serving of Curry Beef Brisket Lo Mein looks a bit on the small side, but the bowl contained a good amount of food, and I wasn’t actually left wanting.

And then, fried chicken! Because who can resist fried chicken?

Half & half ginger fried chicken & chilli fried chicken, $18

Pnomh penh wings, lime white pepper, $16

The Ginger Fried Chicken tasted like plain fried chicken to me – not a bad thing! – and the Chilli Fried Chicken brought a really nice punch. My favourite part is licking off the sticky glaze from my fingers, and the juxtaposition of the crunchy, sticky and juicy in the one delicious bite.

The Pnom Penh Wings also made a fantastic impact on me, mostly because the lime and white pepper dipping sauce provided a refreshing palate cleanser of sorts that kept me going back for more chicken!

It’s a great non-committal way to try out new dishes, and providing new lunch options to those working in the CBD. Sure, the meals aren’t exactly what I would call “value for money”, but it is good food executed at high standards, so…you get what you pay for.

Give it a try next time you’re in town – we don’t know when this pop up will ship out.

This meal was independently paid for.

Work in Progress
50 King St
Sydney, NSW 2000
Phone: 02 9240 3000
Website: http://merivale.com.au/wipbar

SSSSSSSSmokkim Modern Kitchen, Top Ryde

Review April 13, 2015

Deep fried stuffed jalapeño from smokkim

I remember when I first visited Korea with my parents – we had a tour guide explaining the nuances of the culture, and telling us little anecdotes and stories, to illustrate what makes Koreans, well, Korean. Fast forward 17 years (eep!) and I’m still utterly fascinated with the culture, and not only because the boys in Big Bang are so stylish and pretty!

I’ve always been a firm believer that food is a gateway into a culture and history of a country, and for that reason, the food needs to sometimes be varied in order to make it slightly more accessible, because you can’t always expect people to go straight for the fermented funky fish. Smokkim Modern Kitchen seems to be trying to achieve that, with a Korean style influenced menu set amongst casual dining surroundings. Located next to Oliver Brown in Top Ryde City, this cosy restaurant has lovely ambient lighting, and a large balcony area if you prefer al fresco dining.

Marinated Beef Bun – Soy marinated sirloin , ssamjang, kimchi

Crispy Soft Shell Crab Bun – cos lettuce, coriander, tobikko mayo

First order of the day – buns. Soft, sweet, milky white buns that are the cornerstone Asian pastries. There was a trio of them on the menu – Marinated Beef, Pork Belly, and Soft Shell Crab. The Marinated Beef – my favourite of the three – was generously filled to the brim with sweet soy cooked wafer thin slices of beef, and just the right amount of kimchi and greens to balance the kick of salt and sugar. Yum. The Pork Belly came a close second, but it really was much better in the Bossam (below), and for that I’d go for more beef buns if I had to order again. Not quite the standard of Pu’er or Belly Bao, but tasty enough to support the menu.

Deep Fried Stuffed Jalapeño – Premium pork neck mince, silky tofu, mixed vegies

The Deep Fried Stuffed Jalapeño is great as a bar option, and because, #fryday. Stuffed with pork mince and crumbed in panko, these give off a satisfying crunch followed by requisite juiciness upon the first bite. A very grown up Jalapeño popper, these bites bring a touch of sophistication to the urge to pair fried food with alcohol. Quite lovely, but needs more mayo.

Everything can always do with more mayo.

Bibimbap of the day – Rice dish reinterpreted by Smokkim, with spanner crab, dried seaweed, kohlrabi, egg custard

I was first introduced to bibimbap in its searing hot stone bowl by my dad at age 12, and the mix of rice, vegetable, egg, sauce and the delicious crust down the bottom of the bowl has been an expectation of bibimbap ever since. This however, was a cold version, with crab, seaweed, radish, and what looked like scrambled eggs. Like a chirashi almost. And while I can appreciate the concept of the interpretation, I can’t really say that I enjoyed this one. The sauce that came with it wasn’t quite enough to moisten the bowl, and the spanner crab was a little light on flavour. And it made me a little sad, because then I just wanted a chirashi bowl, but it wasn’t socially acceptable for me to have two lunches in a row. /sadface.

Bossam – Traditional Korean dish, slow cooked pork belly, radish and beetroot pickle, soy caramel sauce

But for what the Bibimbap gave in disappointment, the Bossam made up for it. Thick slices of braised, tender pork belly are laid on a plate with kale leaves, pickles and ssamjang – a fermented bean sauce that typically goes with the dish – and you’re meant to make little wraps that are mouthfuls of bliss. I especially enjoyed the structure that the kale gave to this, even though it isn’t a traditional choice of green, and the sticky sweet soy that coated the pork belly just had me licking my fingers. Favourite of the day, and so light on the belly too!

Wagyu Beef Burger

And of course, a burger, because Sam must order a burger when he sees it on the menu. It was a really nice burger, but again, not quite in the league of the burger giants in Sydney. The zucchini chips also provided a lovely crunch to me (Sam wasn’t a fan), but somehow it was sorely lacking a type of dipping sauce that usually goes with a side of chips. For me, anyway.

I think Smokkim is a fantastic first date option – you know that you’re getting decent food and attentive service (we were the only people sitting on the balcony and we still didn’t get neglected), with just enough culture to make it interesting, but not enough to potentially leave you smelling like smoke and hotpot while walking out of the restaurant. No, that, you leave for date 3 or 4. I much preferred the small bites to the large, although I can very well see me treating myself to a Bossam plate for a leisurely lunch.

Mmmm. Pork Belly.

Insatiable Munchies dined as guests of Smokkim Modern Kitchen.

Smokkim Modern Kitchen
Shop 4003 Corner Devlin St And Blaxland Rd
Ryde, NSW 2112
Phone: 02 9809 5703
Website: http://www.smokkim.com.au/
Opening Hours: Mon – Thurs, 10am-11:30pm, Fri-Sat, 11am-1am, Sun, 10am-11:30pm

The Norfolk, Surry Hills

Review April 10, 2015

The Norfolk used to be “that place under House Of Crabs” to me, where the food was decent, but not the main attraction. But now, there’s a whole new menu, and a few of us were lucky enough to get invited to feast!

Deep fried banana taco anyone?

Fried Chicken in Waffle on a stick

Monterey Cheese Burger, with EZ cheese and Jalapeño Salsa, $5

Asado beef tacos, with coffee, avocado cream, and arbol chilli salsa, $5.50

Jalepeno Popper Taco, with pumpkin mole, queso and salsa mojo, $5.50

Pulled Pork Taco, with smoked adobo pork, aji chilli and pineapple salsa, $5.50

Mole Fried Chicken Wings, with mole spices, crema and chilli vinegar, $14

Deep Fried Pickles, with ranch sauce, $9

Mac and Cheeseballs, with spiced ketchup, $14

San Jose Sang Choy Bow, with green papaya, lime, peanuts and salsa mojo, $14

BBQ Corn, with ancho mayo, bacon and pretzel furikake, $7

K-Town Burrito, with short rib, smoked frank and kimchi rice, $14

But before dessert, the bar menu. The corn with ancho mayo, bacon and pretzel furikake should be how all corn should ve had, with smoky crusty salty deliciousness to be had all around. If this is how all veggies are served, I’m sure you wouldn’t have issues making kids eat their veg. The Monterey Sliders were also pretty groovy, bringing all the cheesy comforts in every bite. There was an extra one floating around the table, and it was all I could do (and the belt that I was wearing) that stopped me from going for seconds.

And for tha Mac and Cheese lovers, The Norfolk is turning it up a notch with Mac and Cheese Balls. Finally, the perfect crumb to ooey gooey goodness ratio. This came with a dipping sauce, which was somewhat non-essential, since every ball of mac has the cheese to dress itself.

Deep Fried Banana Taco, with peanut butter ice cream, ice magic, peanuts, 100s and 1000s, and a fried corn taco, $12 for 2

The Deep Fried Banana Taco was the last dish of the night, and served with a flourish it was. It had all the hot/cold sweet/savoury things going on, but at that point I was so stuffed that I wasnt sure what I was really eating anymore. But I did finish the banana though, because, uh, ~~deep fried~~ fruit is good for you right?

Insatiable Munchies dined as guests of The Norfolk and Drink and Dine.

The Norfolk
305 Cleveland St
Redfern, NSW
Phone: 02 9699 3177
Website: http://www.thenorfolk.co/

I like Coffee, I love Tea.. Pu’er, Waterloo

Review March 1, 2015

Wagyu Beef Tacos from Pu'er in Waterloo, $16

…I love the wagyu beef tacos and it loves me.

Really, though. I’m an absolute tea addict. And yes, I’m one of those people who will go to fancy tea places and spend all of my money on tea and tea paraphernalia (there are a lot!). But nothing quite beats the experience of a tea service, and unless your cupboards are filled with warmers and teapots of every kind, this is an experience that’s best left to the experts.

Premium Jasmine, $9

At Pu’er, they serve you premium teas with a full explanation of how best to enjoy them. We tried a Premium Jasmine and Osmanthus Phoenix tea. Each one comes in each own tea set. It was explained to us that a 1-2 minute steeping time is optimum, and with these teas, the third or fourth steep is the best. I loved the detail and care that went into the tea service – not once was I left wondering what to do when I reached the bottom of my cup.

The Osmanthus Phoenix presented a surprise to me – I’m not usually a fan of Osmanthus teas in general, but this finished on the palate with such tropical fruity notes that it brightened up my day like a bouquet of flowers brightens up a room. Very nice.

And if tea is not quite your thing, they also do killer cocktails.

Cocktails from left: Berry, and Coconut Dream

The Coconut Dream was an absolute standout for me. Young coconut juice is mixed with Absolut’s Wild Tea Vodka and dried apple pieces, creating a cocktail so beautiful I couldn’t even taste the acrid burn of alcohol on the palate after. And that’s pretty impressive considering that I don’t drink for that very reason.

Shanghai, $7

And now that I’m appropriately boozed up, on to the food! We begin with a selection of small bites: The Shanghai, $7, and Mushroom Pot Stickers, $7.

Mushroom Pot Stickers, $7

The Mushroom Pot Stickers were filled with a fragrant, savoury filling, and I absolutely loved how the chewy mochi-like exterior gave way to the piping hot insides. The Shanghai was not as fragile or soupy quite as I was expecting, but it’s got fantastic flavour in each bite.

Wagyu Tacos, $16

And then came the first touchdown: the Wagyu Tacos came out on a pretty dish looking like gua baos, but really, I stopped caring what they looked like the moment I realised how delicious these things were. The beef was rich and unbelievably tender, and the salty glaze just the right foil for the sweet, fluffy buns. This is the bit that made me regret that there were four of us, because I really could’ve gone for more than one.

Hong Kong Mini Burger, $15

The Hong Kong Mini Burgers were no slouch either. Sweet milk buns are decadently deep fried to create that golden exterior, giving way to a savoury hoisin sauce and panko crusted pork, the macdaddy of breading. It was all crunch and lusciousness, and it made me feel all tingly inside. It’s something that you can’t really create in a larger form: the ratios were so delicately balanced, and it’s hard to get the same kind of juiciness if you were to go for a substantially larger piece of pork. No, this was quite amazing the way it is, and every bite was thoroughly delicious.

Stir Fried Green Beans, $18

Three Cup Drunken Duck, $26

For the mains, we were recommended – and rightly so – the Stir Fried Green Beans and the Three Cup Drunken Duck. The green beans were crisp and al dente, and covered in a chilli spiced pork mince “sauce” (topping?) that left us fighting for the last spoonful on the plate. The duck was melt-in-your-mouth tender, and fell apart on the bone the moment our forks pierced the flesh. The savoury umami notes from the mushrooms made the sauce rich, and made for a very satisfying mouthful when mixed in with rice. The only critique? NEEDS MORE SAUCE.

Tea Smoked Watermelon with Kafir Panna Cotta

And of course, the sweet stuff. Pu’er is all about their teas, and it shows with the impressively dished Tea Smoked Watermelon with Kafir Panna Cotta. The cubes of watermelon sat under a cloche, surrounded by swirling smoke, while the panna cotta jiggled seductively on the side. Smooth and creamy mixed in with crisp and juicy mixed in with sweet and smoky…All watermelon should be smoked from now on.

Coconut and Lime Sorbet with Black Glutinous Rice and Coconut Water

The Coconut and Lime Sorbet with Black Glutinous Rice struck a chord with me, with its Southeast Asian influence. It reminded me strongly of pulut hitam – a warm dessert made with salted black glutinous rice and served with thick coconut cream. This version has been augmented with a coconut and lime sorbet, which created bright citrus notes that cut through the comfortingly stodgy texture of the black glutinous rice.

The food was consistently exquisite throughout the lunch, but what impressed me the most, was that the owner, Siev, is actually at the helm, cooking in his own restaurant. Born to Cambodian parents, Siev sees his mother as his inspiration, and what started out as a dream for a teahouse has become a full fledged restaurant with thoroughly deliberate food that is matched only by its detailed and knowledgeable service. And despite the comprehensive background of information that influences his food, Siev is no snob either. When asked about what he chooses to eat, he admits – with some embarrassment – that there have been harrowed moments that consuming fast food has had to be an option, but it only makes me respect him more as a person. The pressures that he faces running a restaurant and keeping a business afloat in these tough times are very real and very human, and I think that he is executing his vision deliciously.

It kinda makes me ashamed that I had not ventured down to this side of Danks St sooner. From their tiny teacups to their beautifully blue and white porcelain-topped tables, Pu’er is a gem of an experience just waiting to be discovered.

Insatiable Munchies dined as guests of Pu’er.

Insatiable Munchies dined as guests of The Rice Den.

The Rice Den 30-32 Chandos Street St Leonards, Sydney Phone: 02 9438 3612 Website: http://thericeden.com.au

This meal was independently paid for.

Billy Kwong 28 Macleay Street, Elizabeth Bay Potts Point, Sydney, NSW Phone: 02 9332 3300 Website: http://billykwong.com.au

Insatiable Munchies dined as guests of Luyu and Yum Yum.

Luyu and Yum Yum Level 1, 196 King Street Newtown, Sydney Phone: 02 8317 6337 Website: http://luyu.com.au

Insatiable Munchies dined as guests of One Tea Lounge and Grill.

One Tea Lounge and Grill Upper Ground Floor 73 York Street, Sydney, NSW Phone: 02 8318 2246 Website: https://www.facebook.com/ONEtealounge

This meal was independently paid for.

Sokyo Level G, The Darling at the Star 80 Pyrmont Street Pyrmont, Sydney, NSW Phone: 02 9657 9161 Website: www.star.com.au/Sokyo

Insatiable Munchies dined as guests of The Tall Lemongrass.

The Tall Lemongrass 136 Willoughby Road Crows Nest, Sydney, NSW Phone: 02 9966 0350 Website: www.thetalllemongrass.com.au/

This meal was independently paid for.

Work in Progress 50 King St Sydney, NSW 2000 Phone: 02 9240 3000 Website: http://merivale.com.au/wipbar

Insatiable Munchies dined as guests of Smokkim Modern Kitchen.

Smokkim Modern Kitchen Shop 4003 Corner Devlin St And Blaxland Rd Ryde, NSW 2112 Phone: 02 9809 5703 Website: http://www.smokkim.com.au/ Opening Hours: Mon – Thurs, 10am-11:30pm, Fri-Sat, 11am-1am, Sun, 10am-11:30pm

Insatiable Munchies dined as guests of The Norfolk and Drink and Dine.

The Norfolk 305 Cleveland St Redfern, NSW Phone: 02 9699 3177 Website: http://www.thenorfolk.co/

Pu’er 20a Danks St Waterloo, NSW 2017 Phone:02 8399 1331 Website: http://www.puer.com.au/

The Rice Den
30-32 Chandos Street
St Leonards, Sydney
Phone: 02 9438 3612
Website: http://thericeden.com.au

Billy Kwong
28 Macleay Street, Elizabeth Bay
Potts Point, Sydney, NSW
Phone: 02 9332 3300
Website: http://billykwong.com.au

Luyu and Yum Yum
Level 1, 196 King Street
Newtown, Sydney
Phone: 02 8317 6337
Website: http://luyu.com.au

One Tea Lounge and Grill
Upper Ground Floor
73 York Street, Sydney, NSW
Phone: 02 8318 2246
Website: https://www.facebook.com/ONEtealounge

Sokyo
Level G, The Darling at the Star
80 Pyrmont Street
Pyrmont, Sydney, NSW
Phone: 02 9657 9161
Website: www.star.com.au/Sokyo

The Tall Lemongrass
136 Willoughby Road
Crows Nest, Sydney, NSW
Phone: 02 9966 0350
Website: www.thetalllemongrass.com.au/

Work in Progress
50 King St
Sydney, NSW 2000
Phone: 02 9240 3000
Website: http://merivale.com.au/wipbar

Smokkim Modern Kitchen
Shop 4003 Corner Devlin St And Blaxland Rd
Ryde, NSW 2112
Phone: 02 9809 5703
Website: http://www.smokkim.com.au/
Opening Hours: Mon – Thurs, 10am-11:30pm, Fri-Sat, 11am-1am, Sun, 10am-11:30pm

The Norfolk
305 Cleveland St
Redfern, NSW
Phone: 02 9699 3177
Website: http://www.thenorfolk.co/

Pu’er
20a Danks St
Waterloo, NSW 2017
Phone:02 8399 1331
Website: http://www.puer.com.au/